Monday, November 25, 2013

Annual Remington 1100 Maintenance

Every year around this time the 1100's get disassembled and I give them a thorough going over.

One of the 1100's was purchased used in either 1972 or 1973 and still going strong. My wife and I were out shooting sporting clays a few weeks back and they worked as if new.

I always replace the Action Spring ($5.99).  Not a part that needs to be replaced unless you start having problems, but for what they cost, and as I already have the gun torn apart, it just one less thing that I have to consider if I start having problems.  To access the Action Spring you need to take the stock off.

Through the years I had a Feed Latch ($19.99) that has fallen out a few times after removing the trigger.  I have a re-staking tool, but after taking a good look at the latch I saw it needed to be replaced, as pretty beaten up where it had been re-staked in the past (likely I didn't do a good job the first time).  I used one plate pin (holds the trigger in place) and a small (maybe 3 inch) C clamp to hold the latch in place while installing. Any gun smith can re-stake the latch if you don't have the tool.  I have read where some just use glue to hold the Feed Latch in place and forgo using a re-staking tool.  It will work, as if you can get the trigger installed the Feed Latch is not going to fall out. 

A butt plate screw needed to be replaced. It was loose and wouldn't tighten. A quick run to the hardware store and I went with the next size up.

The last few times I removed the recoil pad I had a hard time with one of the hex screws holding the pad in place and feared it was stripped.  I pushed it out of the pad and found a piece of rubber had lodged in the opening where you place the hex key to tighten or loosen.  An easy fix.

I pull the Magazine Spring and give the tube a good cleaning.   A few years back I replaced the Magazine Follower ($5.29) on my 1100's when I was having a problem.  My feed problem went away with a new follower on one, and as I have older model 1100's, I replaced them all.

The Barrel Seal gets replaced.  I can't remember the last time a barrel seal was the cause of my 1100 not working properly. As long as it doesn't look torn or beat-up, most likely good to go, but there cheap enough. If you purchase from Remington they will charge you an Arm and a Leg. Visit the local hardware store or do a Google search.
Viton O-rings, size 21 for the 12 gauge. Viton is the material you want. 20 gauge O-ring is #19 Viton. 
Many years ago I purchased a package of 50 via the internet for a very good price. I think I gave away half of them through the years to shooters that needed a replacement.

I use Break-Free to clean.  I use the plastic squeeze bottle.  Tried the spray can and did not like, as no control.  A small dose goes a long way.  Put on and leave overnight.  Wipe off and your set to go. No need to oil and not recommended if you use Break-Free!

I use Rim Oil on the outside of the barrel and receiver when putting the gun away when at the range.

Watch those fingers when reaching around inside the receiver, sharp edges.  I use a Q tip when cleaning the rail the Link slides on.

This is also the time that all the chokes get a good soaking in whatever at the time is my favorite choke cleaning solvent.  I put them in a pickle jar with solvent and let sit for a few days.  A bore brush at the end of a drill finishes the job.  Make sure you crease the threads before you insert the chokes.  Should be part of your routine, using choke crease.  Doesn't take much.  A pain in the butt to remove a frozen choke!

Also, a good time to check your supply of spare parts. 

I own a tubed O/U and use for skeet, but prefer the 1100 for both trap and sporting clays!  Saying that, will have to think about using the 1100 for FITASC, as only allowed one malfunction!

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